A Guide to Classical Guitar Strings

Guitar String Numbers and Names

Guitar strings are typically numbered from 1 to 6, starting with the thinnest string and moving to the thickest.

1. E – 1st string
2. B – 2nd string
3. G – 3rd string
4. D – 4th string
5. A – 5th string
6. E – 6th string

The first string, also known as the high-E string, is the thinnest and produces the highest pitch. It is located closest to the ground when the guitar is held in a playing position. The sixth string, known as the low-E string, is the thickest and produces the lowest pitch. This numbering system is a quick way for guitarists to communicate which string to play. Learn more about guitar string names and numbers.

Types of Classical Guitar Strings

Nylon

The very first classical guitar strings were made of sheep intestine (commonly referred to as “gut”). Gut strings give that classic sound you hear on the old recordings of guitarists like Segovia. However, as gut strings were slowly phased out, they were replaced with nylon. In fact, Segovia himself collaborated with Rose and Albert Augustine to create nylon strings. Nylon strings are much cheaper to manufacture and last much longer. They are also not as volatile with humidity changes as are gut strings.

While the treble strings are all made of nylon, the basses in a set of nylon strings are actually a nylon core wrapped in metal, usually silver-plated copper or steel. (Some string makers use a multifilament core.) Nylon strings are an extremely warm string, but can lack clarity and don’t project as much as some other alternative types of strings. The third “G” string is usually a fairly undefined muddy kind of sound. Thus, the transition from the brightness of the thinnest bass string (the fourth-string “D”) to the third string can be difficult to balance out. Many guitarists will use a different type of string, like carbon, for the third string to adjust for this imbalance. More on that below under “hybrid” string setups.

Carbon

Carbon strings are made of fluorocarbon, which is a shorthand name for a special polymer called polyvinylidene fluoride (PVFD). This is essentially the same material used for fishing line. It is a very dense and tough material even at small diameters. Thus, carbon strings can offer a loud and bright sound (similar to gut strings) but with the benefits of plastic, namely, they don’t go out of tune with humidity/temperature changes. They also maintain intonation better than nylons — though intonation is something we’ll have to discuss more below.

Carbon strings usually are a great fit for instruments with a modern bracing, like a double-top or lattice-braced guitar. They can sometimes be a bit too bright on traditional, fan-braced instruments, especially the super thin high E first string.

Composite: Titanium, Zaffiro, etc.

Because many guitarists value both the warmth of nylon strings and the projection, brightness, durability, and intonation of carbons, many string manufacturers have been creating composite strings. D’Addario calls theirs “titanium,” while Aquila calls them “Zaffiro.” At their best, these strings do a nice job of balancing out the bad aspects of nylon and carbon, essentially giving you the best of both worlds. However, at their worst they just don’t sound like anything special in particular.

While gut strings do still exist, they are very hard to find and can be exorbitantly overpriced. They are also still quite temperamental. A new alternative to these issues is “NylGut” strings, a synthetic composite that attempts to blend the best qualities of gut and nylon. Aquila’s Alabastro are a good example of NylGut.

Polished

These are strings where the windings on the basses have been polished, literally ground down to remove the grooves from the windings, to make them less noisy. We all know about “squeaks” on our bass strings. Polished strings take out some of the work you as a guitarist have to give to this problem.

While the basses are much less squeaky with these strings, they are much more expensive than other types and don’t sound great in a live setting. They have much less projection and because the basses feel different, you may end up playing them differently as a result…which can sound strange. The real place for these strings is in recording, where you really want to reduce the amount of squeaks with your bass strings. Combining techniques to reduce squeaks with polished basses can all but remove the squeak. So if you have a recording project coming up, pick up a pack of these.

Hybrid

As we have hinted at above, sometimes the best way to strike a good balance between the benefits and drawbacks of nylon and carbon is to mix and match different types of strings. Hybrid setups, such as carbon third with nylon for strings one and two, can really create a nice balance. Even more, you can mix and match brands and tensions of strings to create your perfect hybrid setup. This of course takes a lot of experimentation, but some people really enjoy this process. And it can help you create exactly the kind of sound you want for your guitar.

On Dave Belcher’s Paul Sheridan (a lattice-braced) guitar, he uses the following hybrid setup:

• D’Addario EJ46 nylon first string
• Hannabach Goldin carbon second and third strings
• D’Addario EJ46 silver-plated copper basses

This allows for the warmth of nylon on the first string (where melodies are often played), with a nice consistent brightness on the mid tones on the second and third, and a traditional bass sound.

Tensions of strings

But the type of string is only one variable you need to pay attention to. Another important factor is the different tensions of strings. Typically strings vary from light to extra high tension. The tension of the string is actually determined by the diameter of the string. The thicker the diameter, the more tension (pounds per inch) is required to bring that string up to pitch. The one exception to this would be carbon strings, which are usually thinner in diameter, but much denser and stiffer in consistency.

So, which tension is right for you? Here are a few generalizations to keep in mind.

Light tension

Lighter gauge strings tend to be easier to play, but they don’t have as much projection. To some players the lack of projection can be experienced as a lack of body to the sound. But fretting as well as vibrato are much easier for the left-hand fingers. So if you struggle with arthritis or other hand issues, lighter gauge strings can be a great solution to minimize hand stress.

High tension

Higher tension strings are somewhat more difficult for the left hand because of their thickness, but for the same reason they are louder and some feel they have more “body” to the sound. The higher tension of the strings also means the string moves around less, which means you can lower the action on the guitar. This can sometimes help you balance out the difficulty of fretting with the left hand versus the benefit of a louder sound.

But keep in mind that different brands use the same term for different tensions. There is no set standards for “light,” “normal,” and “high” (or “hard”). In fact, one brand may call something “normal” that is more equivalent to another brand’s “high”! The best way to compare similar tensions is to look at the gauge (the diameter) of the strings. Most strings are listed in hundredths of inches: 0.028 for “normal” tension first strings, for instance.

Brands of Strings

Augustine

• Augustine is credited with creating the first nylon treble strings in the 1940s during World War II. This was spurred on by the dearth of gut strings as this material was being used by medics for sutures in the war. Segovia needed a solution and was introduced to Albert Augustine, a string maker in New York. Augustine had learned of DuPont’s new monofilament material “nylon” and began working to adjust it into the treble strings we all know and love today.

D’Addario

• In truth, however, the D’Addario company was doing the same thing at the same time, working to develop nylon strings out of DuPont’s materials. While they relied on Augustine and Segovia’s collaboration for their own new strings, they were working in parallel with Augustine creating excellent nylon strings. The D’Addario family’s roots of string making go back to the seventeenth century!
  • Go here to see our review of the D’Addario XT Classical Guitar Strings

Savarez

• The French strings company Savarez were the first to develop and use carbon guitar strings. This polymer sounded a lot like gut, but without the drawbacks of gut, being both temperamental and in short supply.

Aquila

• Aquila took the best of these historic strings from Augustine, D’Addario, and Savarez to create their composite string “NylGut,” a synthetic that blends the sounds of nylon and gut (and carbon) into one.
  • Go here to see our review of four sets of Aquila classical guitar strings.

How to Change Nylon Strings on Guitar

Equipment you need

While all you really need to change your strings is a fresh set of new strings, there are some pieces of equipment that will make your job easier. Here are just a few simple tools we recommend having at hand:

• Neck-up tool: This little tripod tool will raise up the neck off of your table so it’s easier to wind and unwind your strings. They’re pretty cheap and readily available online.
• String winder: A string winder will make your string changes so much faster. They allow you to quickly unwind/wind your strings and some string winders also come with a string clipper built in.
• String clipper: After you bring your strings up to pitch, there will inevitably be leftover string. So once you have your fresh, shiny new strings on, it’s time to clip off the excess string. A string clipper will make this process simple. However, many guitarists just use fingernail clippers, which work like a charm!
• Protective material for the top: This is completely optional, but many beginners find that if they don’t tie their strings down well the nylon trebles especially can slip out and cause string dents on the top of your instrument. To protect against this, it can be useful to have a protective material behind the bridge. A heavy card stock works well for this, though you can also find special “bibs” that fit around the bridge.

Step-by-step process for changing classical guitar strings

1. First, take your string winder and remove just the treble strings. While you can remove all of the strings at once, it can be useful to leave a bit of tension on the neck and you can use the bass strings for reference as you tune up as well. If you want to clean the fretboard and top of the guitar, however, it’s perfectly safe to remove all the strings at once.
2. Insert one end of the first (E) string through the first tie-hole at the bridge. Leave a generous excess of extra string through the hole, at least enough that you can wrap around the string about 2-3 times. Next, wrap the tail end of the string back around itself 2-3 times in a figure-8 pattern so that the wraps lay flat on the top of the bridge and the tail of the string is tucked comfortably on the back side of the bridge.
3. Insert the other end of the same string into the hole of the headstock slot for the first string and pull until the string is taught. Pull the string around the barrel back toward the rest of the string. Now we’re going to wrap the string around itself 2-3 times similar to what we did at the bridge. (For an extra layer of security you can insert the string into the same hole one more time before wrapping the string around itself.) Tune the string to pitch.
4. Clip the excess string from the headstock and near the bridge (if you’re using protection, this will keep the top from getting dinged as you clip).

Some things to consider:

• We want the wraps of the string as they go around the barrel to be on the inside for the 1st E string and on the outside for the 2nd B and 3rd G strings. This has to do with alignment of the strings in the headstock holes to make sure they have a good string break-angle. All you have to do is wrap the string so that the tail points in the opposite direction of the wraps. For the 1st E string that means you want the tail of the string to point toward the inside of the headstock after wrapping around the string.
• Repeat the same steps for each of the other strings including the basses, ensuring the wraps are on the inside for the 6th string and on the outside for the 5th and 4th.
• Once you tune the strings to pitch they will continue to go flat for the first few days as they settle. This is completely normal. Continue tuning the strings up throughout the day and they should be fairly stable in 2-3 days.

Further reading – How to change strings on classical guitar

How often to change strings

How often should you change your strings? It really all depends on how much you play (and to an extent what type of strings you use). You really shouldn’t go more than 3-6 months without changing your strings. If you play frequently or notice a decline in sound quality and intonation, consider changing them more often.

How to reduce finger squeaks with new bass strings

Especially with fresh bass strings, it’s common to get finger squeaks as you move around from fret to another on your bass strings. (Keep in mind this is not a problem with the treble strings.) So you really want to be sure to reduce the finger squeaks as much as possible. They can be distracting and at times really distract from the music.

1. Lift: The best and most reliable way to remove squeaks is to lift straight up off the bass string just before you move from one fret to another. You have to lift straight upwards, careful not to lift at an angle. And you want to be sure not to lift so quickly that you sound the open string. It needs to be a quick upward lift and shift to the new note.
2. Use the pad: You can also use more of the pad of the finger as you move, which is softer than the fingertip. We build up calluses on our fingertips and so using the fleshy part of the finger that is softer on the pad can reduce these noises.
3. Use polished strings: Polished strings make your bass strings practically squeakless. If you combine the above tips with polished strings you can create silent shifts. These are great for recording.

Maintaining Strings on Classical Guitar

String Maintenance Tips

1. Clean After Playing
   • Wipe down your strings with a soft cloth after each playing session to remove sweat and oils from your fingers. This helps extend the life of your strings.
2. Store Your Guitar Properly
   • When not in use, store your guitar in a case to protect it from dust, humidity, and temperature fluctuations, which can affect the strings and overall instrument.
3. Change Strings Regularly
   • How often you change your strings depends on how much you play. As a general rule, change them every 3-6 months, or sooner if they start sounding dull or feel rough.
4. Use String Lubricant
   • Applying a string lubricant can help reduce friction and prolong the life of your strings. Be sure to use a product designed for classical guitar strings.
5. Recycle Old Strings
   • You can wash old bass strings in a water-vinegar solution to remove oils and dirt and they will sound like new.

Troubleshooting String Issues

Intonation

Modern strings are extremely consistent, which means most strings will have solid, accurate intonation. However, you can sometimes run up against a defective string. It happens! If the string will not hold the correct pitch it is very possible you just have a bad string. However, you also want to be sure your instrument has consistent intonation.

You can check your intonation on each string by playing the note at the 12th-fret harmonic and comparing that pitch with the fretted 12th-fret note. If they are off, especially by more than a cent or two, you may need to have the intonation adjusted at the saddle. However, there are multiple factors that can affect intonation (including the nut at the other end) and so if you encounter consistent issues you may want to take the instrument to your luthier to check it out.

Buzzing

If a string, especially a bass string, begins to fray it can cause buzzes on your instrument. Usually you can see the windings coming undone on the string and so it’s an easy diagnosis that your string needs changing. This is very common for fourth strings, especially if they are long past due for a string change. Again, however, there are other issues that can cause buzzes. So check your finger placement (technique) and be sure you don’t have frets that are too high or low (again, check with a luthier if you’re not sure).

Strings breaking

If a string consistently breaks, it could be you have a defective string. Or you may have a sharp bur at the bridge or headstock hole. Sometimes if the channels in the nut are not cut out correctly you can have issues with string breakage there as well. It’s important to look at where you think the string is breaking to determine if there is an issue with the instrument. If not, you can always try changing the string to make sure you didn’t just have a defective one.

FAQ

1. Can I use acoustic steel strings on a classical guitar?
   • Nope. That will very likely damage your instrument
2. Should you use higher tension strings on a shorter scale guitar?
   • Generally when you shorten the string scale you should put higher tension strings, yes. Luthier Gary Lee discusses this topic at length in his podcast interview with Simon.
3. Are “normal” tension strings the same across brands?
   • No! Different brands use the same term for different tensions. So be careful and look at the “gauge” (the string diameter) to see how tension from one brand compares with another.